Quinta da Regaleira

August, 2015

     It is one of the most enigmatic monuments of the Cultural Landscape of Sintra. It is located in the path that connects the Royal Palace to Seteais Palace.

     Before Monserrate, we passed through the entrance, but the queue was huge and the difficulty to park was even worse, so we postponed for later.

[...]

   After we crossed Monserrate in almost its entire length, we then decided to go to Quinta da Regaleira (even though we were already quite tired), we decided to make one more effort, especially because there was no longer any queue at the ticket office [Note: This monument is not included those packages which can be purchased at the tourist office - see the post about Sintra]. But also, between all the monuments that we, the entrance to this was the cheapest, about 6 € (if I remember correctly).

         As soon as we entered, we took in our trusty map and go to the discovery towards the Loggia of Pisões, one of the fifth corners. We went up (I know, more climbs) and went to the cave labyrinth. I should mention that the fifth is full of caves, and some passable subways, which gives it a mystical environment and gives us some "tingling".

    We continue to Balneario Fountain, continuing to Regaleira Fountain. Going up some more, went to the Grotto of the East, where we entered through two forks, which from one we came to Lake Cascade, a "magic" place where the cave, the waterfall and the whole surrounding environment, "build" a grateful moment to photography and to the human eye. On the other side behold, we arrived at the bottom of the Initiation Well (Inverted Tower that "sinks" 27 meters inside the earth, with access via a monumental spiral staircase. Its connotation refers to the relationship between Earth and Heaven) . We then decided to go up hundred or so steps to the beginning of the Well.

    Later it was time to get down to the Portal of the Guardians, cistern and follow the left to the Incinerator, continuing down to the Tower of Regaleira. We went to neomanuelina Chapel, whose symbolism refers to the Order of Christ. The crypt has an underground connection with access to the palace, but was forbidden to the public. So we passed the Terrace of Chimeras to the Palace.

    As for the palace, this was the summer residence of Carvalho Monteiro family was designed in a style neomanuelino. The palace has 6 floors, and the floors -2 and -1 are servants areas such as the kitchen, dormitories and dining room. The palace is worth visiting for its architectural beauty, namely, the noble floor (0), whose decoration of the rooms is inspired by the Manueline, Renaissance and Baroque period. Noteworthy is the porch whose ornamentation evokes the epic of the Portuguese Discoveries. The Hunt room, which is the dining room whose highlight is the fireplace where stands the issue of hunting.

   The floors 1 and 2 are filled with rooms that currently hold exhibitions on the construction of the palace. The third floor is one of the best as it gives access to the terrace which gives a view of the entire fifth and surrounding area.

Parque & Palácio Monserrate [Monserrate Park & Palace]

August, 2015

    The palace was built in 1856 under the English architect James T. Knowles project for Cook family's summer residence The basis were ruins of a neo-Gothic mansion built by Gerard Visme in the eighteenth century. In the year 1540 it was built the chapel dedicated to Our Lady of Montserrat [funny how the buildings begin always with chapels in honor of some saint or religious order], on the hill of the palace. In 1601, the property passes to the Mello e Castro family, and in 1718, D. Caetano de Mello and Castro [who just happened to be the Viceroy of India] acquires the fifth, and the Lisbon earthquake made it uninhabitable. In 1790, Gerard Visme lease the fifth and built the first neogothic palace on the ruins of the chapel, then in 1793, William Beckford [one more curiosity: was a writer, known to be the richest young man of his time, (not bad)], leases the fifth, performs works in the palace and begin to create a landscaped garden. In 1856, Sir Francis Cook acquires the fifth and promotes the reconstruction of the palace and gardens.

      The State acquires Monserrate park, totaling 143 hectares in 1949 and in the year of 1995, UNESCO ranks the Serra de Sintra, where is located Monserrate, like Cultural Landscape - Heritage of Humanity.

     The park is one of the most beautiful landscaping creations of Romanticism conducted by Sir Francis Cook. This property houses an outstanding collection of botanical species from around the world, making spectacular scenery along winding paths between ruins and lakes.

      Now that we've talked a bit about the history of the park and the palace, I will tell you about the adventure Mena and I had [see it as a sort of virtual tour].

      Well, we initiated our journey through the park by the left side toward the Hippocrene (lake with the name of a source of ancient Greece). For now we go down, always down and then ... UP once again I repeat the importance of water and comfortable shoes. We follow the route in a continuous zigzag, through the Valley of the Ferns up to the Chapel. We continued to go down to the Japanese garden (always surrounded by shadow, thank God, since it was an unbearable heat), a tour full of aromas and natural sounds, which basically give us a sense of calm and peace.

     We continue towards the Mexico garden, past lagoons that give the landscape another charm. Now that we have reached the bottom of the garden, it's time to climb, always zigzaging, past the rose garden (which in my opinion is a bit disappointing compared to the rest of the garden).

   Rising and continuing to decrease the distance to the palace, here we envision a breathtaking scenario, an extensive lawn, well maintained (which according to history was the first planted in Portugal), and at the top the palace.

    We ascend a bit more (although the body was already showing signs of fatigue), behold, we have come to the rear of the palace, whose exterior has left us delighted and inside (although no furniture, except for the library), gives us the feeling of being in another time and space (perhaps India or Morocco).

Gone through the interior of the Palace, our exit was actually through the main entrance of the palace, which continues to nourish our amazement.

Just have not seen the stone house, the greenhouse and nurseries, because there was still one more stop to make. 

Parque & Palácio da Pena [Pena Park & Palace]

August, 2015    

First of all, a word of advice:

     1st: don't go by foot, is always up, so enjoy the fact that there are transfers that take you right up to the palace gate;

      2nd: look for a map of the palace, because there are beautiful trails through the gardens and the map can be quite useful.

      3rd: bring water and comfortable shoes, because the length of the entire palace and park are great to exercise your legs.

      Take this advice into account if you really want to enjoy a good tour, something else choose a day when the weather is pleasant (in spring would be a good choice).

      

      Some useful informations about the history of the Palace and Park: the Park and the Pena Palace is the pinnacle of Romanticism of the nineteenth century, in Portugal. Were D. Maria II and D. Fernando II (King Artist) the authors of such magnificent work.

      

 With regard to the Palace during the Middle Ages it was built the chapel dedicated to Our Lady of Pena, twelfth century. In the year 1503, the Monastery of Our Lady of Pena was donated to the Order of St. Jerome by King Manuel I. In 1755, with the earthquake in Lisbon, the monastery was damaged and fell into decay. in 1838, D. Fernando II bought the monastery, and the recovery and construction of the "New Palace" by King, D. Maria II and the Baron Von Eschwege only occurred between 1842-54. In 1889 the state purchased the Palace and the Park and in 1910-12, after the establishment of the Republic, the palace is converted into a museum. In 1995, it is a UNESCO World Cultural Landscape - UNESCO World Heritage as it is located in the Serra de Sintra.

        About the park, this is regarded as a landscaped design of rare beauty and scientific importance, which occupies about 85 hectares, benefiting from special geological and climatic conditions.

       The park surrounds the entire palace, and because of my friend was extremely tired after nearly 3 hours of visit, we decided not to go through the whole park. But I will show you some of the places he went.

      Well, we entered through Lakes Entrance (which is still far from the main entrance, above). We walked by the Lake Valley and up to the Fountain of birdies. The Valley consists of five lakes to where the main water line of the park goes. The fountain is a construction of Islamic style, with spherical dome and with inscription in Arabic. After we passed through Nora and Chapel Minor to the Palace. However, some of the iconic park locations are the Cruz Alta (highest point of the Serra de Sintra - 529m), the Cave of the Monk, the Alto de Santa Catarina (a viewpoint with the "throne of Queen" carved into the rock), the table Queen, the Temple of Columns, Queen D. Amelia Garden, the Chalet of Countess D'Ella and its garden.

      As you can see, much remained to see ... the conclusion is that it looks like I'll have to go back there. After a big climb we encounter the greatness of the palace, time to recharge the batteries and go visit it. I must confess that was the outside that most fascinated me, from the colors to the details finely carved, which decorate the arches and doorways, columns and more columns. I add that one of the most spectacular is the merman and also the wonderful views from anywhere in the Palace.

Quinta das Lágrimas

October, 2014

     Before I tell you a little bit about this setting, I'll tell you a story (hope you like fairy tales, more or less). Do you remember when I talked on a previous post, about Coimbra and a story that happen some centuries ago, where the protagonists where D. Pedro and D. Inês de Castro!? No, so get ready.

      So like any other story; Once upon a time... I'm kidding!!!

   On August 24, in Lisbon Cathedral, Infante Dom Pedro, heir to the throne, was marrying D. Constance, daughter of D. João Manuel of Castile, however it was by one of the maids of his wife, that D . Pedro fell in love, D. Inês de Castro, and thus marked the beginning of one of the (tragic) love stories.

    This was a love affair frowned upon either by the court as to the people and consequently for the king himself. D. Afonso IV, under the guise of morality, in the year 1344, sent into exile D. Inês. But distance does not faded the love they felt for each other, because according to legend, they exchanged letters assiduously.

    After the death of D. Constance, D. Inês returns from exile at the request of Don Pedro, but against the will of the king, and so continued his romance, having D. Inês given birth to four children of Pedro. After a few years in the North, they returned to Coimbra and settled in the Palace of Santa Clara. Rumors of a secret wedding, with serious political implications, with murder rumors to the rightful heir, the king decided that the death of D. Inês was the right decision. That said, on January 7 of 1355, the king ordered the execution of Inês, to Pêro Coelho, Álvaro Gonçalves and Diogo Pacheco. According to legend, the tears of D. Inês created the Fountain of Tears and his blood was marked on the rocks.

   The death of D. Inês revolted D. Pedro, and so when he became king legitimized their children, claiming that he had married D. Inês, and then sent to pursue their killers. He sent to execute Pêro Coelho and Álvaro Gonçalves (according to legend, the king sent to rip the heart out, one through his chest and the other through the back), Diogo Pacheco managed to escape, and in his death bed, the king forgave him. D. Pedro declared D. Inês Queen of Portugal (already dead), and according to what is said, forced his court to kiss her hand. Even now their tombs are together in Alcobaça Monastery.

The End!!

      Now I can talk about Quinta das Lágrimas :)

    As you have noticed, Quinta das Lágrimas has a special place in the history of Portugal and is another magical place to visit in Coimbra.

     The Quinta is located on the left bank of the Mondego, occupies a 18.3 hectare area around a nineteenth century palace, which is now a luxury hotel. In its gardens are accumulated memories from the fourteenth century. And it's in the gardens that we can find the Fountain of Love and the Fountain of Tears.

                         

        

     This property belonged to Santa Isabel of Aragon, Queen of Portugal and grandmother of D. Pedro, on it she ordered to make a canal to bring water from two springs at the Convent of Santa Clara (the water still runs and is drinkable, so you can drink without any problem). To the place where the water exits is called "Fountain of Love" (where, according to legend, D. Pedro and D. Inês exchanged correspondence), and the other fountain was named by Camões, in "Os Lusiadas" as "Fountain of Tears". Lies an inscription near the Fountain of Tears (did I mention that it has a cross shape !?) withdrawal from the canto III of Camões work (sorry for not translating it, but it would sound weird):

"As filhas do Mondego, a morte escura

Longo tempo chorando memoram

E por memória eterna em fonte pura

As lágrimas choradas transformaram

O nome lhe puseram que ainda dura

Dos amores de Inês que ali passaram

Vede que fresca fonte rega as flores

Que as Lágrimas são águas e o nome amores". 

     

       Over the centuries, the Quinta became the property of the University of Coimbra and a religious order and was subsequently acquired by a family. In 1650, it was walled and built the tank that receives water from the Fountain of Tears and headed to power the grinding wheels of an oil mill.

See you in the next trip :)

Portugal for Little Ones [Portugal dos Pequenitos]

October, 2014

     Portugal of Little Ones is a theme park designed as a playful, educational and touristic space, in order to show aspects of culture and Portuguese heritage in Portugal, but also in the world.

    I should mention that to enjoy the most of this site you must regress a bit and go back to being "little ones", to go only where they go and play again, in the streets, monuments and places of this great little space.

    But where is it, you ask? Located in Largo do Rossio de Santa Clara , in Coimbra and is now a year since I first went there. [It is rare because currently, schools and the parents themselves take the kids there]. It's a different place where the adventurous spirit of the Portuguese people is evident, and just having curiosity is not enough, you have to be willing to play and experiment, because only then is it possible to have a positive experience (instead of boring). 

    A bit of history now: this space was initiated by Professor Bissaya-Barreto  in 1938 and is since 1940 essentially aimed at children (now you realize my previous speech). Its construction was carried out in three stages, namely, the 1st between 1938-40, made up of all the regional houses: Solar of Tras-os-Montes and Minho, typical houses of each region, with orchards, gardens, chapels, mills and pillories, and the most important monuments of the city of Coimbra. The 2nd phase referred to as "monumental area" where are represented the most representative monuments from north to south; and lastly, the 3rd phase, completed at the end of the 50s, which includes monumental and ethnographic representation of the (then) overseas provinces in Africa, Brazil, Macau, the Portuguese India and of Portuguese Timor, as well as representations of Azores and Madeira.

    But how can all this be represented? Well, in the park are buildings on small-scale, organized in five complementary areas: Countries of Portuguese Official Language, Portugal Coastal Islands, Monumental Portugal, Coimbra and Regional Houses, and you can also visit the Costume Museum (which displays about 300 miniature pieces with the evolution of costume, from simple to more elaborate lace fabrics, from simple dress of the XX century to the most sophisticated of the XVI-XVIII century, all of which have been prepared by hand); the Navy Museum and the Furniture Museum.

     When I was there, it was also possible to visit a space (entirely) devoted to Barbie (yes, those dolls that we collected when we were kids).

For some of you this may be a place "not to go", but from personal experience, you can only talk about something if you've tried it or if you went and saw it!!!

Coimbra

October, 2014

     Last year, around this time, I went back to travel, this time to one city in the Central Region of Portugal: Coimbra, with Erasmus students. I had passed by this city on several occasions (some happier than others), but had never visited, truly, the city and discovered its charms.

     That said, it is now a year since I decided to venture into the streets and alleys, courtyards, stairs and medieval arches that form part of it, and may now enjoy the charm of the town of doctors and (also) love.

    Taking as a starting point, the doctors, let me give you a little lesson in history: Coimbra is a historical university town because of its university, founded in 1290 by King Dinis (the first university in Portugal), bathed by Mondego river (where the freshmen are baptized). Having been, on June 22, 2013 considered a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Also the fado of Coimbra is linked to academic traditions and is characterized by a guitar with a structure, configuration and proper tuning.

      Still talking about academic traditions, one of the events that Coimbra has to offer is the Trellis or "Festa das Latas" (for those who are Festival Goer) and the imposition of insignia, which take place at the beginning of each school year. The trellises began in the nineteenth century when students expressed their joy with noise, using all objects in particular cans.

      Speaking a little more of the city, this is taken as a Romanesque city, knowing the forbidden love of Pedro and Inês, one of its most striking episodes (when talking about Quinta das Lágrimas, I will tell you their history).

      Being a city with so many years, it has a lot to see (again I advise you to wear comfortable shoes), including places like the Garden Arches, the Old Cathedral, the Botanic Gardens, the Monastery of Santa Clara, Manga Garden, the Baroque Library, the Portugal for the Little Ones, Quinta das Lágrimas, the Palace of Schools and right near Coimbra, the ruins of Conímbriga. These are spaces / significant monuments which carry with them a lot of history, which makes them majestic, charming places, and I will talk a bit more about some of them, with some curiosities.

     I will now tell you a little bit of some of the monuments that already named, and who had the opportunity to have visited.

The Baroque Library: eighteenth century, located in the Palace of Schools of the University of Coimbra; It presents a style called by Rococo (in history classes, this name always gave rise to joke). Its construction began in 1717 and culminated in 1728, being recognized as one of the most original and spectacular Baroque libraries in Europe (after all were 11 years of work).

Aqueduct of San Sebastian also known as Garden Arches located next to the Botanical Garden, whose history dates back to Roman times, but the current, dates from the sixteenth century under the reign of King Sebastian, and is a national monument since 1910.

 

Manga Garden is one of the first Renaissance architectural works in Portugal, with their evocative structure of the Source of Life.

Botanical Garden has about 13.5 hectares, has several collections of flora and is also equipped with a library, herbarium, botanical museum and laboratories.

The Old Cathedral is one of the Romanesque style buildings, whose construction took place after the Battle of Ourique (1139) when D. Afonso Henriques declared himself King of Portugal and chose this city to be capital of the Kingdom.

The Palace of the Schools it is an architectural complex harboring the historical core of the University of Coimbra, having been built over many years, and was Royal Palace from the reign of D. Afonso Henriques to the sixteenth century. The Palace encloses some points of interest, such as the Iron Gate (destined to solemnize the entrance of the campus, and was conceived as a triumphal arch) and the University Tower (built between 1728 and 1733, and the clock tower always played an important role in the university everyday life - the goat - to the extent that is associated with sound signals serving as clock to all students).

With regard to the ruins of Conimbriga, the Quinta das Lágrimas and Portugal for the Little Ones, will be for further posts. But I hope that when visiting the beautiful Coimbra your able to enjoy the beautiful scenery and all the history that is part of it.